Returning to Kosovo: optimism prevails
Osojane is protected around the clock by the Spanish contingent of the Nato-led Kosovo Force (KFOR). It is impossible to set foot in the village without prior notification - at least 24 hours in advance.
A community of 200 'celebrities'
"No, you cannot enter, your names are not on the list of visitors. But I'll call headquarters and check again", said the young Spanish soldier on guard at the entrance to the village of Osojane.
It turned out that the list was late in arriving. After almost an hour of waiting, the OSCE human rights team was finally allowed to enter the village.
The village is home to a community of 200 Serbs, who were the first to have chosen to return to Kosovo when the organized return process started in summer 2001.
Stories about this group of 'celebrity returnees' have been published in countries many people here have never even heard of.
The OSCE Mission in Kosovo, together with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR), monitors the situation of the returnees.
From tents to houses
Their "new-old" life in Kosovo began on 12 August 2001 when the first 50 returnees arrived in Osojane. They were given accomodation in tents provided by the UNHCR and immediately set about rebuilding their houses.
By the end of May 2002, 55 houses had been rebuilt and 45 of these are inhabited. For those families still working on their homes, containers have now replaced tents.
Houses are not the only thing that are being rebuilt. Work is also being completed on the school. Even though the outside is still decrepit, three classrooms can be used already.
Nenad Djuric, a teacher, is hoping for more students in September, as well as a new school building. Currently there are 12 students attending the school.
"Of course we speak Spanish"
Mr. Djuris says that some of the strongest friendships in the village have developed between the children and the KFOR soldiers. The secret is the common language - Spanish. Primary school children are all taking Spanish language classes every day.
"Of course we speak Spanish", say Jelica and Danilo, as if the question was really stupid. "Doesn't everybody?", the faces of the first graders seem to ask.
"Covic gives us 5,000 dinars"
In one of the two local bars, all the tables are taken, people are taking a break and everyone is talking to everybody at the same time. "Where do people find the money to buy a cup of coffee?" we ask Branislav Djuric, the owner.
"Covic (Serbian deputy prime minister Nebojsa Covic, Head of the Co-ordination Centre for Kosovo) gives us 5,000 dinars per month - less than 100 euros - per family". That is not enough to support a family but, obviously, people in Osojane have a found a way to do it.
Apart from a kiosk and the two bars, there is nowherere else to shop in the village. Twice a week, trips are made under KFOR escort to Mitrovica, where the nearest supplies and services can be found - be that food supplies, nails or anything more-than-basic medical care.
"We just want to live with our neighbours"
Milos Pasic, the local doctor, explains that his medical centre can handle only the most basic cases. For anything more serious, a visit to Mitrovica hospital is necessary. But this is also a problem because there is no proper ambulance vehicle in the village.
"If all the surrounding Serbian villagers would come back, it'd be much better for all of us and for them. We just want to live together with our Albanian neighbours as we used to do earlier. Now I can't go to the next village without a KFOR escort", says Branislav.
"Visitors come and go. But I cannot move 500 meters from my house in any direction".
A world one kilometre long
A casual visitor to Osojane could hardly be blamed for thinking that there were too many things preventing people from having a decent life in this 'celebrity' village.
The returnees, however, express surprisingly strong optimism.
"Conditions are bearable. The surroundings are pleasant, no matter if we do have some shortages every now and then", says the schoolteacher.
And they are urging everyone, especially young people, to come back. Natasha Repanovic, a 26-year-old nurse told the OSCE team: "Our world is about one kilometre long. That's the scope of our daily existance. But I do believe, hope and appeal to all young people to come back. It is not that easy, but we all have to work hard so everything can one day be as it was earlier."
The lead role in human rights within the United Nations Interin Administration Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK) was assigned to the OSCE, the institution-building pillar, to address the protection and promotion of human rights. Human rights tasks of the OSCE in Kosovo include monitoring, protection and promotion.